With the weather outside being frightful, a fire and a huge blanket sounds so delightful. Calls for cuddles and bundles are a must during this time of year, which obvi exposes your face + body less and less. When this happens, your largest organ could use an extra hand (or product) shedding dead skin cells, too. Enter: exfoliation. With expert advice from Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud, MD (she/her), medical director at Curology and board-certified dermatologist, here’s what you need to know on scrub-a-dub-dubbing.

First off, is exfoliation a necessary skincare step?
While exfoliation is optional in a skincare routine, it can offer several benefits. Exfoliating can help remove dead skin cells which can improve dull skin and clogged pores. Alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid, are chemical exfoliants that can also help reduce hyperpigmentation and increase collagen production.

Wait, are there different types of exfoliants then?
Yes, there are various chemical and physical exfoliants on the market, although it can take some trial and error to determine which product may be right for one’s skin. Chemical exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and mandelic acids) tend to be a better option for those with dry skin whereas beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid, are typically better for those with oily skin. Physical (or mechanical) exfoliation involves using facial brushes, scrubs, or sponges.

How often should we exfoliate our face?
One may use a chemical exfoliant one to two times per week, gradually increasing the frequency of use as tolerated. Physical exfoliation depends, especially since facial scrubs can sometimes be too harsh to be used daily. But another physical exfoliation option is a konjac sponge which can be used two to three times a week with plain water or one’s regular cleanser.

Where in our skincare routine should we exfoliate?
Where one exfoliates in their routine may vary based on the type of exfoliant being used. Generally speaking, an exfoliant can either be used in the morning or evening after cleansing. Some exfoliants can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to wear sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning. It’s also important to review the instructions on your exfoliating product, as well as follow the guidance of one’s dermatologist or other licensed dermatology provider.

How can we tell if we’re over-exfoliating?
The skin may become red or feel irritated or sensitive. It may also feel “tight” and appear shiny. If this occurs, the skin may need a break. Consider stopping all exfoliating products and using a heavier moisturizer or Vaseline.

Are there any other products we should or should not use when exfoliating?
When adding a new exfoliant to one’s routine, it may help to temporarily stop other products that may cause dryness or irritation such as topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, retinol) or products containing benzoyl peroxide. Once adjusted to the new exfoliant, other products can be added back to the routine gradually as tolerated. It’s also recommended to ease into exfoliating, starting out by using an exfoliant one to two times per week and gradually increasing use as tolerated. Additionally, some prefer to alternate exfoliants with other skincare products on differing days to minimize skin irritation.

Is there anything else we should know?
If you are able to, seek professional guidance from a dermatology provider when you have questions or are unsure where to start with a skincare routine. They can ensure personalized recommendations, taking into account your skin type and specific needs.